Tuesday 17 March 2009

All Shapes, All Sizes, For Always - The Trouser Suit

Jordan Dunn Ermanno Scervino s/s09 (to die for!)
Antonio Berrardi s/s09 (flood length tailored trouser)
Ermanno Scervino s/s09



This is a tricky ensemble. Sometimes the trouser suit is particularly prevalent on the catwalk and at other times they are almost non-existent. The trouser suit continues to change, evolve, revolve and innovate. Blazer’s change their cuts from slim lined to androgynous, shoulder pads to non and trousers from tapered to straight, boot cut to wide legged and so on and so forth. And unless you can go into Paul Smith and buy yourself a killer suit, the buying process of the perfect suit is exactly as I said, ‘A Process.’ However the shape and cuts we are seeing for s/s 09 season are completely exquisite. Particularly this suit worn by Jordan Dunn for Ermanno Scervino, it’s neat, sexy, incredibly sophisticated (wearing one of these you would most certainly feel a cut above the rest) and a great practicality factor resides with the trouser suit that is rarely considered in fashion - Comfort. The trouser suit is incredibly comfortable. The tapered trouser suit is the ultimate classic, a key investment piece definitely. Of course trouser suits are tricky, they need to be well tailored, they need to sit on the body perfectly and they always need to be good quality – NOT EXPENSIVE – just good quality. And after investing such an amount of time and a fair bit of money – you have to think, where can I wear this? Apart from the office? However, as much as I love black, I couldn’t see myself wearing a black tapered trouser suit during the day anywhere apart from to an office in the city – And hopefully I won’t be headed to any office in the city any time soon! When wearing black in the summer during the day I try to keep the clothes as precise to the season as possible – a black tapered tailored suit is almost too ambiguous and can ultimately look like ‘you just got it wrong!’ Hence why suits such as Antonio’s Berardi grey suit above is perfect for both day and night. The jacket is beautifully cut, adding the womanly curves into the body of the jacket which takes away from the masculinity of the trouser suit and just to add more sex appeal to the suit the trousers are a flood length – which means you have plenty of room to play around with an extravagant decorative shoe as seen particularly on the Gucci s/s09 catwalk, on the other hand you could keep shoes relatively simple and make your ankles be the main feature of this length trouser. After all, ankles are a sexy yet tasteful part of the body to reveal, less obvious than the décolletage, far more tasteful than cleavage! I could see myself wearing this in Italy with a killer pair of gold heels to add ‘GLAM’ and a bit of fun to sophistication and where I’d be going in Italy dressed like this – well I haven’t decided yet!
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