Wednesday, 8 April 2009

The Taming of the Shoe

Naomi Campbell, Paris Runway, Vivienne Westwood

I recently sat in my Italian class during the break period typing away on my blackberry, next to me sat two sixty plus fellow Italian Students. They were flipping through The Metro commenting idly on bank manger payments, taxes and pension pay outs – all of a sudden one of them let out an ear piercing gasp, ‘Look at those, aren’t they ridiculous?’ My eyes wondered from my Blackberry towards the newspaper inquisitively, but it was out of my glance. ‘These aren’t shoes, they’re decoration!’ The other shrieked. I smiled inwardly, I didn’t need to see the newspaper to have some idea of the kind of shoes or should I say ‘genre’ of shoes they were gasping at – let’s be honest, the shoes of today are somewhat epic! We should all be well familiar with the story telling, dramatic almost costume looking shoes by now; those with the unbelievably high platform, or the ankle deforming heel, the ones that shove the upper half of your body so far forward that you end up walking like a duck, the shoes that execute a full body work out just to lift one foot from the floor to take that one step for ‘shoe kind!’ Yes - those embellished, beautifully intricate, almost too pretty to wear, too kinky for the under twenty one’s and way too complex for the male sex to understand – shoes – Ok, so you know the ones I mean? The point is there seems to be no veering towards the taming of the shoe, they are getting more vibrant, more fantastic and far more impossible to wear – remember Naomi Campbell for Vivienne Westwood, plummeting to the floor in fairy tale looking shoes? And it was only a season ago that model after model tripped down the catwalk in their Prada’s.
Now the impossible shoe has made it to the high street – check out these pink and red Kurt Geiger shoes, or these Topshop Court Shoes. Don’t be fooled by the Topshop Court, they may look tame in this photo, but in the flesh the platform is like an art deco architectural raised ledge. When the once simple plain and classic court shoe comes with a blueprint and a planning permission we have entered the age of the strategic and structured shoe – a decorative, eye catching, statement screaming phenomena! We are officially in the era of shoe experimentation, except the experiment isn’t alternative - it’s expected, it’s mainstream – it’s fashion.
It would appear that the more crazy and creative we get with the shoe the more we are a fashion advocate. At least this would be my own personal belief, sporting a normal shoe – no frills, no bells or whistles is just too safe, too easy and ultimately too damn boring. Of course life is all about balance, so if a shoe happens to be particularly wild, wear it with a pair of jeans, some flood length trousers or a knee length skirt – let the shoes do the attacking for the outfit. The decorative shoe is also worn nicely with a classic look, to add that extra edge and modernity to tradition – which of course demonstrates a great knowledge of fashion! Once in Steve Madden in New York for an intense shopping trip with a best friend I came armed with a price and picture list of all the shoes I wanted, ‘What are these shoes for exactly?’ My friend asks, as we navigate my shoes in the shop with the help of my list, ‘Surely not for meeting in laws?’ She demands incredulously.(Yes, they were for my first trip to Italy to meet the in- laws, but they were multi purpose shoes, meet the in-laws for dinner, go for drinks with my partner, go to a club with the girls kinda shoes) I nod my head slowly, she becomes outraged, ‘ Are you crazy? You can’t meet a man’s parents wearing these – these – they are stripper shoes. Omigod, no way, I don’t even know how you walk in these things – ,’ The barricade of abuse flew, as it so often does from this particular friend’s mouth. In hindsight she was right – these shoes are not multi- purpose at all! Yes, you have to spend a reasonable amount of money on them, but don’t think that justifies wearing them everyday for every occasion! These shoes are for clubbing only, if you’re drinking in a bar before heading to a club, then of course and if you are in a late night bar on a Friday or Saturday evening then maybe that’s ok. But home by eleven - during the week - meeting the girls for a few drinks kind of drinking - no way, Jose, leave your shoes behind for a night they deserve. However if you are adverse to the simple shoe, like myself then think of curbing the embellishment and decoration in either the actual body of the shoe or the heel. For example find a fairly simple court shoe with an impressive, exciting heel or find a shoe with a decorative and intricate body and minus the inches in platform or heel height. Jimmy Choo for example is perfect for keeping shoes beautifully crafted, with every attention to detail with the right amount of sexiness - The heel and platform height are always just perfect for the shoe leaving you with a shoe that's never a boring shoe, always statement making but perfect for all events that acquire you to be dressed without looking like a stylish stripper!


Jimmy Choo - Embellished heel, simple, classic shoe



Embellished shoe, bells, whistles, tassels and all sorts, BUT there's no platform and a reasonably high heel.
Tip – Lower platform height to take away excessive sex appeal – (can there be such a thing??)


When Taming The Shoe - Think Balance!!!!

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Wednesday, 18 March 2009

Can Your Skirt Carrie Your Coat?













It was only a matter of time before it being completely essential to dedicate a blog to all fashion lovers favourite fictional character - Carrie Bradshaw! It only seems apt that she be placed in my killer coat section, as I mentioned in the previous blog, Carrie seriously does carrie a skirt or dress with her coat perfectly. And not only that, but just look at the beautiful coats and jackets she wears - feeling jealous? I am!
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The Perfect Coat : Dress Ratio

Burberry Porsum a/w 09/10
Perfect Coat to Skirt Ratio
Burberry Porsum a/w 09/10

Perfect Coat to Skirt Ratio


Although this has been one of our coldest winters in decades I still feel as though age has taken away my ability to block out the cold the way I used to. It was only a year or two ago that me and my friends would go to the clubs dressed in the tiniest of dresses with the tiniest of jackets and would brave the cold for sheer vanity. Now – I physically cannot. I mean I will still wear a dress bare legged in the snow – in fact I did that! But, I wore a three quarter length black Burberry Mac, which although is actually for the summer season proves to be much warmer than any cropped or waist length jacket that I would have donned years ago. In my attempt to wear jeans as little as possible, my Mac (well, like most of the expensive things I wear actually belongs to my mum) has proven to be the essential jacket for my evenings. Mac’s are the ideal coat to wear over a dress, there’s nothing that I hate more than to see a dress hanging out beneath a jacket or coat, unless it is an actual look – like a fitted jumper dress with an open leather biker jacket, or a small cropped jacket with a puff ball skirt – I suppose my point is unless the jacket is short enough it can just look a disaster. For example a jacket that just reaches the mid thighs being worn with a dress or skirt that meets the knees – OH NO!!! There is nothing worst than seeing a skirt gathering around the legs because the coat isn’t the right length or cut for the dress - the thought of this makes me cringe. You could have the most amazing coat on and be wearing the most beautiful dress, but this combination just murders the whole look. Of course, for some a coat is just to keep you warm – but I suppose a person with such an attitude would not be reading an article called The Killer Coat (unless it was about fur!) I believe that in most cases a coat should cover the dress or if not should be the right shape or cut for the dress. Smock coats over skirts and dresses are also a complete no- no. They shorten the body, make you look top heavy and do not balance out the body. Smocks need to be worn only with skin tight jeans or trousers. If you’re tall enough and fairly skinny then possibly you could wear a smock with boyfriend jeans. I would very rarely wear baggy garments on the upper and lower part of the body in one outfit.
It is hard to find a universal coat, one that can be worn for the evenings and day time, worn with long and short dresses and skirts, baggy or skin tight jeans, ankle boots or knee boots! If I was rich I’d have a huge collection of designer coats; Fay and Burberry would be rife in my dream coat wardrobe. Back to reality!!!! - Carrie Bradshaw (yes I am going to use a fictional character – it’s for fashions sake) always managed to get the coat and dress/skirt thing right. Watch a few Sex and The City’s and I’m sure you’ll agree. She does at times get it wrong, but she gets the coat thing...
Considering most of us aren’t Carrie Bradshaw, don’t have a stylist and an endless wardrobe I advise investing in a Mac. A real Mac – not these Macs that you find that have three quarter length sleeves and just about sit on your knees. I’m talking about a Mac that allows you to make a statement without needing to see any of your outfit beneath it, with a sharp collar, the right size lapels, belted cuffs and belted cinched in waist. The queen of the Mac is the Burberry Mac, of course they retail full price around the £700 mark, but in the sale these Macs go down almost 50% and trust me will last you a lifetime! I own a thirty year old Burberry Mac - it’s a classic, you can go into Burberry and buy it all year round. Of course thirty years ago a Burberry Mac cost £400!!! The Mac has one cracked button, the stitching of the buttons so tight that the button cracked instead of falling off! Other than that, it still has the exact same buttons and same stitching it did when it left the store. High quality Macs from high street stores in order, I would recommend French Connection (Best quality/ fairly expensive), Karen Millen (good quality/ acute attention to detail/ most expensive) Topshop (reasonably priced/ average quality/ trendy) Zara (reasonably priced/ average quality/ classic)!!!
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A Personal Note - A Writer, A Rant and A Serious Coat




Ok, so there has been no evidence of a sexy short story remnant of Sicily and Valentines day and I haven’t followed up on the article I mentioned in my last personal note - they will manifest in my writing in a different medium and if this doesn’t work then I guess these mediums will soon be made blog friendly for you to read. Nevertheless my trip to Sicily was inspiring, I met a Catanese Sicilian writer, journalist and culture afficianado – Ottavio Cappellani, who I believe is a male, wiser and more published version of myself!!! Cappellani has three published fictional novels, The Sicilian Tragedee, Who is Lou Sciortino and about to be published Who Framed Lou Sciortino. If you have a fascination with Sicily, The Mafia or appreciate quality literature in its contemporary form then Cappellani is your author. Think Mario Puzo meets Ernest Hemmingway or F. Scott Fitzgerald – with a lean towards magical realism. I feel a book review coming on – however, this is just a quick ‘HELLO.’ I have now come to the end of my All Shapes, All Sizes, For Always section and think it’s time to get really HIGH fashion. The sun is shining, for how long I’m not so sure, but it’s here and is a great stimulus for spring/ summer shopping – if you haven’t already started. I haven’t, but I have been preparing pieces that I already own that will soon be adorned while I build up the new season’s collection. How can anyone love fashion, read, write and research fashion and then save? Does it happen, does it exist, can it be done? I don’t think so. And I’ve noticed, although we are in a recession and a/w 09/10 claims to help us by putting many classic cuts and key pieces on the catwalk in blacks, black and only black and then some more black (which is fine by me as I love it!) how come the price of shoes seem to be rocketing?? And I’m not even talking about Gucci shoes, which at one point the cheapest heeled shoe could be as cheap as £250 and now you can barely get a three inch heel for less than £300! I’m talking about high street stores like Aldo, once a reasonably priced shoe shop now has the cheek to price their shoes at almost the same prices as a Kurt Geiger or Carvella shoe! And then there’s River Island – which to be fair does have some extremely nice shoes, however they are a clothes retailer not a shoe shop – how dare they price their shoes at a higher price than a Topshop shoe?? Yes, I know that Topshop is primarily a clothes shop, however Topshop is a fashion forward, high fashion focused and dedicated high street indicator of the catwalk and veteran to the high street. Topshop is the only shop that seems to remain true to its shoe, beautiful shoes at high street prices, looking almost high fashion - their prices haven’t budged much in the past five years. Aldo shoes used to rank in the same kind of price range as Topshop, shoes generally for £60, now Aldo is up there in the eighties and nineties, almost right up there with Karen Millen (another shop that has remained pretty true to its pricing). As you can tell I feel pretty passionate about this subject so I’ll stop right here! I’m just saying that with the recession and rising prices how are high street shoppers and averaged waged people supposed to stay fashionable?? Another question, does Shelley’s still exist? Now there’s a real shoe shop, with real high street prices! Look out for my Shoe Fetish blogs...
Moving swiftly on, now that a/w 09/10 has been catwalked and archived we can begin our search for the perfect winter coat and although I am not trying to wish our summer away, if you should be thinking about a serious coat, shaped, sculpted, ruffled and embellished - as they all don in Taormina (North East Sicily) and don’t have a couple of grand saved in the bank to purchase one then you should be thinking about your coat NOW. My up and coming Killer Coat blogs should help you.
Finally, the fun part, if you have decided your colour pallet, cuts and shapes that work with your body shape, trends that work well with your lifestyle and a price range that suits your bank balance – then I leave you with one instruction - START COLLECTING YOUR SPRING/SUMMER 09 WARDROBE NOW – Happy Shopping!!! X x x x
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Tuesday, 17 March 2009

All Shapes, All Sizes, For Always - The Trouser Suit

Jordan Dunn Ermanno Scervino s/s09 (to die for!)
Antonio Berrardi s/s09 (flood length tailored trouser)
Ermanno Scervino s/s09



This is a tricky ensemble. Sometimes the trouser suit is particularly prevalent on the catwalk and at other times they are almost non-existent. The trouser suit continues to change, evolve, revolve and innovate. Blazer’s change their cuts from slim lined to androgynous, shoulder pads to non and trousers from tapered to straight, boot cut to wide legged and so on and so forth. And unless you can go into Paul Smith and buy yourself a killer suit, the buying process of the perfect suit is exactly as I said, ‘A Process.’ However the shape and cuts we are seeing for s/s 09 season are completely exquisite. Particularly this suit worn by Jordan Dunn for Ermanno Scervino, it’s neat, sexy, incredibly sophisticated (wearing one of these you would most certainly feel a cut above the rest) and a great practicality factor resides with the trouser suit that is rarely considered in fashion - Comfort. The trouser suit is incredibly comfortable. The tapered trouser suit is the ultimate classic, a key investment piece definitely. Of course trouser suits are tricky, they need to be well tailored, they need to sit on the body perfectly and they always need to be good quality – NOT EXPENSIVE – just good quality. And after investing such an amount of time and a fair bit of money – you have to think, where can I wear this? Apart from the office? However, as much as I love black, I couldn’t see myself wearing a black tapered trouser suit during the day anywhere apart from to an office in the city – And hopefully I won’t be headed to any office in the city any time soon! When wearing black in the summer during the day I try to keep the clothes as precise to the season as possible – a black tapered tailored suit is almost too ambiguous and can ultimately look like ‘you just got it wrong!’ Hence why suits such as Antonio’s Berardi grey suit above is perfect for both day and night. The jacket is beautifully cut, adding the womanly curves into the body of the jacket which takes away from the masculinity of the trouser suit and just to add more sex appeal to the suit the trousers are a flood length – which means you have plenty of room to play around with an extravagant decorative shoe as seen particularly on the Gucci s/s09 catwalk, on the other hand you could keep shoes relatively simple and make your ankles be the main feature of this length trouser. After all, ankles are a sexy yet tasteful part of the body to reveal, less obvious than the décolletage, far more tasteful than cleavage! I could see myself wearing this in Italy with a killer pair of gold heels to add ‘GLAM’ and a bit of fun to sophistication and where I’d be going in Italy dressed like this – well I haven’t decided yet!
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Thursday, 26 February 2009

All Shapes, All Sizes, For Always - The All in One

BCBG Max Azria s/s 09
Derek Lam s/s 09

The All In One – Well, this is a difficult one – I love all in ones. I went to a film festival in August 08 and wore a one shouldered, wide legged black all in one. I haven’t worn it since, as it does make quite a statement and is very catwalk, glamorous, sophisticated, but I know its hung in my wardrobe awaiting it’s next showing. All in ones have the same effect as a Maxi dress, you can’t wear them everyday, often they are not particularly practical BUT also like the maxi dress, they elongate the torso, slim the body, have a great impact and look amazing (of course I am not talking about a Jump Suit here! [there’s a huge difference]). However, I wouldn’t advise anyone to invest in the all in one – I don’t think they’re consistent enough to spend huge amounts on. I think they are pretty much a high fashion garment – for such garments at fairly reasonable prices I would choose ASOS, Zara and Bershka.
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All Shapes, All Sizes, For Always - The Asymmetric Gown


Asymmetric Gowns – Invest, invest invest!! The dress above is an Alberta Ferretti s/s 09 creation. Gowns are always a worthwhile investment regardless. Mariacarla Boscono wears a stunning white asymmetric gown which features a heart on the top half of the dress on the Versace catwalk (http://www.versace.com/flash.html).
Dresses such as this make such a huge statement that you feel almost as though you’re cheating to wear it twice. I personally would buy darker colours, with embellishments to a minimum – as I am a ‘normal’ person with no celebrity ties and very few gown worthy events to attend I would prefer to invest in one gown that doesn’t date and doesn’t require me to hide from picture taking opportunities because it screams, ‘YOU WORE THAT TO MY WEDDING!’
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